Italy’s Amalfi Coast has one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the world, but it’s not exactly the most accessible. Here’s how to get there and tips for exploring the coastal towns by bus and ferries.
There are no direct flights or trains to the Amalfi Coast, so it takes a bit of planning to find the best route. Firstly, you can fly into either Rome or Naples airport. There are more flights to Rome, but we chose Naples because it’s closer to the Amalfi Coast and we weren’t visiting Rome this trip.
From the airport
Once in Italy, some people choose to hire a car or private driver to reach the Amalfi Coast and explore the towns, but there are a few reasons we solely used public transport.
One – taxis and private drivers are expensive, and two – hiring a rental car means you must drive along the narrow, windy, and, frankly terrifying, roads along the cliffs which would make even the most confident driver nervous. There also aren’t many parking spots so it’s not worth having a car if you’re only planning to drive between the towns.
Plus, you can easily catch a train from Rome or Naples to the Amalfi Coast.
From Naples Capodichino International Airport, there is a shuttle bus called Alibus that will take you direct to Naples Centrale Station/Garibaldi. Alibus departs from terminal one and you can buy a ticket from a machine inside the airport terminal or on board the bus for €5.
Once you get to Naples Centrale Station (or Roma Termini if you’re coming from Rome), catch a train to either Sorrento or Salerno.
If you’re staying somewhere between Salerno and Amalfi or Conca dei Marini, I recommend taking the train to Salerno station, then catch the bus or a ferry to your destination.
Or, if you’re staying between Sorrento and Praiano e.g. Positano, it would be easier to take the Circumvesuviana local train to Sorrento, then jump on the bus or a ferry from there.
The bus company that services the Amalfi Coast is called SITA, and there are multiple ferry companies to choose from.
Arrive early in the day so you don’t miss your ride!
It’s important to be aware that the buses and ferries stop running at a certain time of night. Try to arrive in Salerno or Sorrento early in the day so you have enough time to travel to your accommodation.
Unfortunately, we learned this the hard way. Our first hotel was in the town of Amalfi, so the plan was to take the train to Salerno then the ferry or bus. The last ferry for the day left at 6pm and the last bus was 9.30pm.
We were supposed to arrive in Salerno on Sunday afternoon, but our flight was delayed so we missed both the last ferry and bus for the day. As it was 10pm our only option to get to Amalfi was a taxi that set us back €120!
There are some more tips for the bus and ferries further down.
Train travel – scenic but not reliable
Trains in Italy are easy to navigate thanks to the big red self-service ticket machines at the stations. Choose your language and type in your destination to see the upcoming train times.
As your destination might not be the final stop on a train route, always check the train number rather than your destination on the platform boards as the final stop on the route will be the one that appears.
Also, be aware of your surroundings when buying tickets at major train stations because distracted travellers are often targeted by pickpockets. We didn’t have any issues our whole month in Italy, however it wasn’t peak season which draws larger crowds. There’s no need for concern – just be careful with your bags.
The other thing to keep in mind about train travel in Italy is to expect delays! Italian trains are notorious for not being on time and we never had a train that arrived or left when it was scheduled.
Exploring the Amalfi Coast
Ok so you’ve made it to the Amalfi Coast! Here’s what you need to know to get around using the ferries and SITA buses.
Ferry
The ferries are more expensive than the bus, but they can fit more people each trip and there’s lots of room for luggage so it’s a less stressful option to get around.
If you haven’t booked any boat tours for your trip, the ferry is also a good way to view the colourful sloping towns from the water and take photos.
We tended to use the company TravelMar but ticket booths for all the ferries can be found at the ports.
Longer routes such as Salerno to Amalfi, or Amalfi to Positano, cost us €10 ($16 AUD), while shorter routes between towns such as Amalfi to Maoiri were only €5 ($8 AUD).
The ferries are weather dependent so if sea conditions are rough, they won’t run. You shouldn’t have any problems in summer, but we went in May (shoulder season) and had a few unexpected rainy days.
Ferry pros
- Lots of seating
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Clear departure times
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Amazing views of the towns from the water
Ferry cons
- Less frequent than the buses
- More expensive than the bus, which adds up if you’re moving around a lot
Bus
The most important thing to know about the SITA bus is that you can’t buy tickets on board – you must purchase them beforehand from a Tabacchi (Italy’s version of a convenience store).
There are Tabacchis near major transit hubs, so you won’t have any trouble finding one. While we knew this ahead of time, we saw lots of people being turned away from the bus after waiting in line because they assumed you could buy tickets on board.
Depending on where you are, some Tabacchis only take cash for SITA bus tickets so it’s a good idea to have some on you just in case.
How much do the buses cost?
The SITA bus tickets are cheap. For example, our 45-minute bus from Salerno to Amalfi cost us €2.60 (around $4.20 AUD).
For a short singular bus ride, tickets cost around €1.40. Just tell the Tabacchi worker where you’re going, and they will give you the correct ticket which you validate on the bus.
How often to the buses run?
There is an online timetable for the SITA bus here. However, give yourself some buffer time when catching buses as they were sometimes unreliable, and you may need to wait in peak periods.
Some timetables are displayed at the major bus stops, but you can always ask the Tabacchi worker when the next bus is coming.
How busy to the buses get?
The buses are cheap and easy to use, but that also means they’re popular. Once they are full, they won’t let anyone else on, so you’ll have to wait until the next bus. As the Amalfi Coast is a popular tourist destination, you’ll also find that at major city stations like Salerno and Sorrento, people will often have luggage which takes up more space.
In May the crowds weren’t too bad but keep this in mind if you’re travelling in peak season.
The buses tend to only have a few designated stops on their route so if you need a smaller stop make sure to press the button.
How windy are the roads on the Amalfi Coast?
All the roads along the Amalfi Coast are extremely windy — think sharp corners and turns, and views of sheer drops over cliff faces.
I usually avoid driving along cliffs, but we used the SITA buses a few times due to the convenience and price. If you get anxious on these types of roads, you can avoid them by taking the ferries, but if I did it, so can you!
Keep in mind that the bus drivers go along these routes every day and are skilled at navigating the tight corners and traffic. You’ll get used to them beeping their horns to alert other drivers that they are coming around the bend.
You might even get comfortable enough to look out the window and see the breathtaking views that the Amalfi Coast is known for. Plus, then you can cross ‘driving down the Amalfi Coast’ off your bucket list.
SITA bus pros
- Easy
- Cheap
- Amazing views
SITA bus cons
- The roads are windy and narrow
- The timetables can be unreliable
- It gets busy, especially in peak season
Regardless of how you travel around the Amalfi Coast, once you get closer to those colourful buildings dotted along the cliff edges, it’s all worth it.
